Can you lay ceramic tiles on to chipboard flooring using flexi adhesive?

have an 18mm tongue and grooved chipboard floor and am wondering if i can lay ceramic tiles on to this with a flexible adhesive and groutCan you lay ceramic tiles on to chipboard flooring using flexi adhesive?
a better bet would be to apply a high quality lino / vynil tile. some of the modern designs are hard to spot as vynil.





Ive used ceramic floor tiles before on a wooden floor surface, and without exception they were a disaster. no matter how well sealed the surface was, no matter if a hardboard layer was put on top, eventually the movement in the wooden floor cracks the grout and the tiles.





unless of course you are doing a smash and grab, ';tittification'; of the area prior to selling it, event then personally I wouldn't do it.Can you lay ceramic tiles on to chipboard flooring using flexi adhesive?
Don't do it. To stop cracking, you need very srong joists, and better flooring. If the joists were designed for a chipboard floor, then the weight of the tiles and if you put ply down first that as well, will mean it deflects more under load. It will crak forever. If you are lucky it will be through the joints, if you prime the ply with PVA and use good cement then they will crak through the lines where the joints in the floor are. Can you guess how I know?
you will need 6-8mm ply anything less and your tiles will prolly get movement and start to crack.


in mine iv put laminate floor tiles, they look really good %26amp; are warm underfoot %26amp; also it`s very easy it i ever need access to under the floorboards.
Two things determine a proper substrate for tile. Deflection and adhesion. Even if you have a sturdy floor, minimal deflection, chipboard isn't suitable for adhesion. The chipboard will want to suck the moisture out of the mortar before it cures. And chipboard will deteriorate over time. You need to either rip the chipboard out, or go over it with a suitable underlayment like Hardibacker or backerboard. Another option is Ditra-mat. But I not sure Schlueter will say that is OK. You might need to some research there. Search Ditra-mat FAQ. See what the say about Ditra-mat over chipboard.





But tile directly over chipboard. Unless you love wasting money, ripping it out, and fixing it within a year or so.
No, its too flexible. You would be better with plywood, screwed every 300mm.





Even then, you will still need to use flexi adhesive/grout





I use a min of 12mm marine ply normally. Some above say 6mm and I bow to thier experience, but if you can afford the height, i'd put 12mm ( but i am known for over engineering things )
No I would'nt. You really need a good 18mm ply and still use flexi. chipboard really isnt suitable it will deteriate and the tiles will pop up. All chipboard is more flexi and the tiles will crack. I am a Carpenter 22 years experience in the building. Hope I have been some help
as a professional builder i see this sort of thing every day ..chipboard is out ..fix 6mm ply on top and then tile using flexy adhesive and grout ..the ply must be fixed securely ..this method is used on building sites all over the uk ..one point ..use green chipboard only as the base before the ply .its waterproof and hardly swells when wet
You can - but I wouldn't.





The wood will still expand and contract faster than the ceramics and you'll still end up with cracks appearing in the joints.





I have seen it attempted twice and both times the above problems started within a short space of time
Change the chipboard to say 25mm waterproof ply and add extra noggins in the floor to stiffen it. If you are happy the floor wont move about too much, go ahead. Use a flexible grout in case of deflection which can cause cracks along the grout lines.





If you have to make a lot of joints because of the size of the room it may be better to bond together two layers of half inch ply with joints staggered. In any event make sure there is no pipework or drains that you need to get to below the floor.
You definitely can't tile on chipboard and even WBP plywood presents it's problems. The moisture from the adhesive initially swells the ply then it shrinks as it dries. To overcome this don't pick very large tiles, the smaller the tile the more joints to allow the moisture to evaporate.





If there is any movement (jump up and down on it) at all in the floor (meaning the joists not the boarding) then give up now unless you are prepared to cut out the chipboard and do the following as a minimum





Before starting floor tiling ensure that backgrounds/bases are:


- Sufficiently flat to permit the specified flatness of finished tiling.


- Suitable for tiling in the service conditions to which they will be exposed.


- Sufficiently strong and RIGID to support the tile finish.





Timber bases should have noggins between the joists at 300mm centres. The surface provided for tiling should ideally be exterior-grade plywood of a minimum thickness of 18mm SCREWED to both joists and noggings at intervals of a maximum of 300mm. The lower face and edges of plywood should be sealed with UNIVERSAL BONDING AGENT against the ingress of moisture before being screwed down. All junctions between boards should be supported by noggings or joists.





Obviously use flexible adhesive and grout.
You shouldn't have a problem as long as it is well braced.





Actually depends more on the pitch of the joists than the flooring material.
You can - but I wouldn't.





The wood will still expand and contract faster than the ceramics and you'll still end up with cracks appearing in all t he joints very quickly .





I have seen it attempted many times the above problems started within a short space of time. approx 1mth.








Good work , good finish easy





NO SHORT CUTS





good luck