A difference of 1/8'; b/w thickness of my ceramic tile and oak flooring. Will the adhesive for tile .......?

Will the adhesive that will bond the tile to sub-flooring make that difference up thus raising the two flooring types to an even level? Will I need to apply leveling compound to make the 1/8'; difference up before working the actual tile? 1/8'; is not much but it will cause a problem with the T-moulding for the threshold between the two flooring units.A difference of 1/8'; b/w thickness of my ceramic tile and oak flooring. Will the adhesive for tile .......?
The adhesive will work to build up the tiles but you ll have either a row of slanted tiles or you ll have to ';build up'; the whole tile floor.


The tee mold may make up the difference but as suggested, cut a scrap pc and cut the leg off the tee mold and let act as a flat pc of trim that will span both floors. You may be able to trim off the back side on 1/2 of the of the ';legless'; tee mold and let it act as a reducer type transition.. With out actually seeing it, its hard to tell exactly what to do.


I wouldn t do leveling compound unless you did it to the whole floor before any subflooring is installed


You could compromise also. You could slightly build up the tiles so the tee mold will conform better.


Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check out my qualifications there. GLA difference of 1/8'; b/w thickness of my ceramic tile and oak flooring. Will the adhesive for tile .......?
The tile setting mortar that you should be using will make up the difference between the surfaces, if not set it slightly higher. On a floor installation application you should only be using a mortar based product no other type of ';adhesive';. The T molding should make up a slight variation in height between the two upon completion.
Better if both surfaces are level. If you are talking about a door entry way, the T-molding may conform to the 1/8'; difference. Cut the t-mold to length, then use the scrap piece in spot to see how it lays. This may work without leveling the floors.
I am not a professional but we had same problem. We installed a whole downstairs, except for the bathrooms, of wide plank Brazilian Walnut that was unfinished w/ ZERO thresholds available. We figured we'd be able to find a pre-made one in some similar wood like cherry and color and stain it to match. Well, because of the approx. 1/8'; difference in the tile in the master bath, none of the ones in any store fit. We finally went to a mill-works shop and took them a plank of our wood. They just made it to our exact specs and made it not only work w/ the 1/8'; difference in transition height but made it work beautifully with a lovely slope so no tripping at all. Now, this was about $60 per strip but that was only because Brazilian cherry is way up there on the hardness scale- harder than oak and is difficult to work with and it was 3/4'; solid wood, plus it was unfinished. They said they do it to any threshold customers bring in -they just reroute the underside. Look in your phone book under mill works, woodworking, etc. PS we were told that leveling the whole floor would be quote ';insane';. Also, we just put the same wood upstairs only in prefinished, except for in the bathrooms. We are getting ready to tile those bathrooms. Since we will have the same problem, except that we are able to find premade store pieces that match the wood for the thresholds, my husband played around and is able to just hand chisel out the back of the T to make it work. Using a thinner width T mold , and if you search you can get it in different thicknesses, it is really not that noticeable. No one sees the back side anyway. I am VERY picky and am pleased with the way it will look.