I need help preparing porous plywood floor previously covered by carpet to install self-adhesive tile flooring

I was told to sand the wood and sweep up. Then to add Kilz2 latex primer as a wood undercoater to seal and prime woodwork. My floor is uneven so I was told to add after the Kilz, Henry 547 Unipro a universal patch and skimcoating. For the surfaces prior to the installing of the self-adhesive tile. I would like to know if these are the correct ways of preparing my floor.I need help preparing porous plywood floor previously covered by carpet to install self-adhesive tile flooring
Jennifer is right. The Luan is WAY easier, WAY faster and,( by the time you have bought all the tools, rented the floor sander and bought all this goop that's been suggested to you) it'll probably cost less too.


As for that slope...shim it with scrap luan.


Really. This is the path of least resistance...I need help preparing porous plywood floor previously covered by carpet to install self-adhesive tile flooring
all i see is a pile of stupid answers


houses are made with a plywood floor that is also covered with what is called a sub floor 3/8 partical board, made to tear up when replacing an old floor to make things fresh


new sub floor is a most in some circomstances


check it out at home depot or others


they will give the best answers
Yes they are.
If you want to do the floor, then follow some of these instructions, if you want to do the floor right, then ...





In the first place luan is not for me unless the floor is even and you just want the floor to have something under it, laying down carpet. Your going to put down tile, you want a solid base.


You said your floor was uneven to start with? Put down 1/4 inch cement board and skip the Henri's, instead punt down a good primer from Home Depot. Put two coats, let them dry good.


You can level the floor with ';leveler'; tapering it at the ends to give you a smooth finish. Your floor will last forever this way.
If your floor has only a slight uneven place that shouldn't be a problem. Most houses built on pier and beam usually do after time. However I would make sure that this is the case and not a joist going bad on ya. As far as floor prep.--you can chaulk the seams and put a good coat of kilz on it. There is no need for the Henry patch or the luan. Just seal the floor make sure it it good and clean, free of all dust and you should be good to go. Just make sure your slight slope it not caused by any other problem.
That is the correct way to do it.
Install 1/4'; luan plywood to smooth your floor. Unless you are referring to a broken floor joist. Then I would suggest you repair the joist. If you are referring to a minor slope in the floor from house settling then the self sick vinyl tiles are flexible and will accommodate the floor. Peel and stick tiles shrink and gap in a short period of time. I would recommend a LVT tile with adhesive. Mannington Adura is a great product guaranteed not to shrink. Very strong wear layer surface as well.





Good luck with your project.
If the slope is minor, I wouldn't worry about it. Fill any holes or gouges with wood putty. Let dry and sand smooth. Vacuum with a shop vac, or a good vacuum cleaner. Prime with a tile adhesive prep sold in quart bottles (you should find it right with the adhesive tiles in the home improvement or hardware store) pour into a paint pan and apply with a paint roller. Let it dry until it's ';tacky'; (slightly sticky) and apply you tile as recommended by the manufacturer.
sounds right....you dont have to sand the whole floor just the joints of the plywood...so their not uneven
I'm not sure what you mean by uneven, but if the whole floor is warped with fairly serious dips and divots here and there, the FIRST step is to even everything up by troweling in ';floor leveler'; which is a powder to which you add water to make a thick paste. Just smear it on with a trowel that has a straight edge (not notched). Pay special attention to places where the subfloor is butted together -get those cracks filled. Smooth your work as much as possible with the trowel. After everything had dried, hit it with a sander. If you use a hand held belt sander (you can rent one), use a circular motion across the surface, and DON'T STOP moving -you don't want to dig in anywhere. Messy work -a lot of dust.





With the leveling done, sweep and vacuum to get every last bit of dust off the surface. Use a damp cloth, even, to get it all. Now apply a coat of cheap varnish or clear lacquer; if the area is small, you may find it in a spray can. What you're looking for is the same thing you would have if you put a piece of tape on any flat, shiny surface -like a table top. That tape would STICK. When the varnish has THOROUGHLY dried, you can lay your floor down.





Self-stick tiles are usually very thing, so irregularities on the subfloor -nail heads, bits of saw dust, tiny pebbles, and cracks between wood will absolutely show through in time -and not much time, either.





Leave a small gap between the tiles and any walls, so everything can expand without bulging up; you can cover the cracks with quater round or other trim.





Good luck.
If you skip the luan, you might as well recarpet, it won't last.


My suggestion would be laminate flooring.


It's like Pergo but now you can get it for a buck per sq ft.


No need for luan and it holds up great, I even put a cigarette out on a scrap w/o hurting it.
I actually did what you are talking about. It was done about ten years ago and the floor is still in good shape. Go for it!